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Long deserted after phylloxera decimated many of its vineyards in the 19th century, the Spanish region of Priorat has undergone a renaissance in recent years and now produces several of Spain's very best wines. High in the mountains of Montsant near Barcelona, Priorat's rugged schist licorella vineyards produce Grenache (Garnatxa) and Carignan (Cariñena) of spectacular depth, and impart the wines with tremendous granitic minerality that gives them a distinctively grippy finish.
Serve this muscular red with some sort of protein to tame its sturdy tannins--though the wine isn't so massive that it won't work with a good tuna steak, properly seasoned. Most any cut of lamb with spices and herbs would suit this wine, and a grilled steak with sea salt and pepper will do in a pinch.
Arrels ("roots of a vine" in Catalan) is a joint venture between star San Francisco chefs Gerald Hirigoyen of Piperade, Laurent Manrique of Aqua, Sylvain Portay of Mix and Master Sommelier and winemaker Emmanuel Kemiji, who is also a partner in another winery called Miura. Hirigoyen and Kemiji grew up in Spain and saw this venture as an opportunity to return to their own roots.
The vineyard's name, Clos Oblidat, translates to "forgotten vineyard," and like many vineyards in the area, this one had been overgrown and neglected until it was replanted with fresh Grenache vines 15 years ago. The wine has brambly huckleberry, bergamot, currant, clove and brandied cherry aromas, and juicy berry, pomegranate, pepper and cherry flavors with a stony, firm finish.