1 3- to 4-pound butterflied leg of lamb
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 teaspoon minced garlic
1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary or 2 teaspoons dried rosemary
1 tablespoon chopped or crushed fennel seeds
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Start a charcoal or wood fire or preheat gas grill or broiler; the fire should be quite hot, and the rack 4 inches from heat source.

Trim the lamb of excess fat. Mix together the olive oil, garlic, rosemary, fennel seeds, salt and pepper; rub this mixture well into the lamb, making sure to get some into all the crevices. (If time allows, it does no harm to let the prepared lamb sit in the refrigerator for up to 24 hours; just return the meat to room temperature before grilling.)

Sear the meat over the hottest part of the grill until nicely browned on both sides, 10 to 15 minutes. Continue to cook with the grill covered or uncovered for 5 to 15 minutes longer, until the internal temperature at the thickest part is about 125 degrees. Let rest for 5 minutes before slicing and serving.

VARIATIONS

Substitute 2 teaspoons fresh thyme (or 1 teaspoon dried thyme) for fennel seeds.

Use 1 tablespoon soy sauce or 1 tablespoon minced anchovies instead of the salt.

Use a combination of 1 tablespoon coriander seeds, 1 teaspoon black peppercorns, 1 tablespoon garlic and 1 tablespoon fresh ginger, all minced or coarsely ground together; moisten with a little soy sauce.

Rub the lamb all over with 2 tablespoons curry powder mixed with 1/2 cup yogurt.