1 ounce dried mushrooms: shiitakes, porcinis or a combination
1 2- to 3-pound boneless veal breast
1/2 cup white wine
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon butter, optional

Reconstitute the mushrooms by covering them with very hot water. Strain through a fine sieve to remove any grit. Strain the liquid, and reserve.

Turn heat under a 12-inch skillet to medium-high, and let it sit for a minute. Add veal, and brown on both sides, turning once, for a total of about 6 minutes.

Remove meat to a plate, and turn heat to medium. Add the mushrooms and about 1/2 cup of their liquid to the skillet, along with wine. Bring to a boil, and cook about 30 seconds, then return veal to skillet. Season with salt and pepper, turn heat to low, and cover.

Cook 60 to 90 minutes, turning once or twice and checking occasionally to make sure the liquid is bubbling slowly; adjust heat accordingly.

When meat is tender, remove it to a cutting board. Turn heat under skillet to high, and reduce liquid to a thick, sauce-like consistency. Stir in butter if desired, and keep warm. Carve meat against the grain into slices 1/4 inch thick, and serve with pan juices.