3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, more for grill
2 cloves garlic, sliced
1 2-pound fillet of wild striped bass, with skin (Pacific salmon, mahimahi or barramundi may be substituted)
Juice of 1/2 lemon
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 medium-size ripe tomatoes, in 1/4-inch thick slices
12 pitted oil-cured black olives, coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon finely slivered fresh basil leaves
Aioli, optional

Heat oil in a small pan, add garlic and cook over medium heat until golden. Remove from heat, drain garlic and chop it.

Brush fish with half the oil on both sides. Brush flesh side with lemon and season with salt and pepper. You will need two large spatulas to turn fish; if you do not have them, cut fillet in half or in 4 portions. Brush tomato slices with remaining oil.

Heat grill to very hot and oil grates. Briefly sear tomato slices, turning once. Remove to a platter and tent with foil to keep warm. Use edge of spatula to scrape grates clean. Re-oil. Place fish, skin side up, on grill. Cook about 5 minutes. Use spatulas to turn. Cook 3 to 4 minutes on skin side, until skewer inserted horizontally in the middle feels just warm. Salmon needs less time.

Transfer fish to a warm platter and pave flesh side with overlapping tomato slices. Scatter with olives, chopped garlic and basil and serve, with aioli on the side, if desired.