Winemaker
Thirty-five years ago Dick Bush, a
Stanford engineer, and his wife Leslie
fell in love with a piece of property high
up in the Sierra Foothills near the town
of Placerville. At the time they planted
it to grape vines, it was, at 3,000 feet,
the highest vineyard in California. Over
the years, the Bushes along with their
four children and growing extended
family, planted out the property and designed
the home and winery, ultimately
outfitting the property for the long
haul of legacy for family and wine. In
the lean, volcanic mountain soils they
planted a number of varieties, including
Cabernet Franc. The grape, which
often produces wines with a “green” or
vegetal edge elsewhere in California,
makes lush, deeply fruited wines here.
The Wine
Madroña’s signature collection Cabernet
Franc comes from vineyards whose
vines were grafted from Zinfandel in
1983. Despite relatively deep soils on
a west-facing hillside, the 30-year-old
vines are low yielding, producing only
1.5 to 2.5 tons of fruit per acre—paltry
yields for what is often a prolific
variety. The concentration and depth
that results is evident in this 2009 vintage,
which pits deep red currant and
cherry aromas against savory scents of
tobacco, tea, pepper and smoke. The
mouth has a nice balance, with pepper
and dark chocolate working alongside a
core of cherry fruit.